Sunday, October 28, 2007

Return: India, an inviting people.

I wasn't sure if I was ever going to finish this last blog. I had started it midway through my last week and, well, I had been finding myself inexplicably exhausted. Was it the recovery from dysenterical problems? Was it the trip back that took two full days, yet landed me on the same day as I left? Was it the curry?

And upon my return, another form of exhaustion hit me, after the first wave left: Reverse Culture Shock.


~~~~~~~~India~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Los Angeles~~~~~~~~

It's so calm here in Los Angeles. While driving down Sunset in rush hour, I noticed that everyone stays in their lanes. I walked into Starbucks and waited in two orderly lines - one to buy a coffee, one to wait for the coffee. But I still don't like them yelling out my name when my coffee's ready. That's worse than all the car honking in India.

The main reason I stopped writing the past few weeks was because I became emotionally invested in everything India: my job, the culture, the people, and the customs. And so I was commonly exhausted.

The job I came to do - teaching Indians the fine art of closed-captioning, and simultaneously, the finesse of English grammar and punctuation - went incredibly well. I got my students to emotionally invest themselves in the job in front of them, and their results exceeded my best expectations. I left India with all four employees ready for real work - beyond what I thought was possible.
~~~~Guru and Krishna~~~~~~and a smiling Farnaz~~~~~

So with that, I celebrated. It so happened that during the last week of my visit was the celebration of all celebrations in India: Dussehra. Basically, from what I researched, this Hindu festival celebrates Lord Rama performing the 'chandi puja.' This puja was performed to seek the blessings of Goddess Durga for killing Ravana. Ravana was the ten-headed demon king of Lanka who had abducted Lord Rama's wife Sita.

I think we'd all celebrate that.

Well, in anticipation of this fine evening, I asked Guru, my trusted trainee, what happens during this celebration. He said that the first thing that people do is purchase clothing.

"Purchase clothing?" I asked.
"Yeah, you buy traditional clothing for the celebration."

So off we went to the mall. Guru led me to the "tradition" section of the department store, and I found myself a fantastic traditional Indian outfit. Not to mention I was set for Halloween. And to repay Guru for his kindness, I bought him celebratory outfit as well. This should be fun - I'll be one with the Indians.

Ready for war. Well, party.

Upon arrival to the local celebration, a few things surprised me. Firstly, there was over 15,000 people crowded around an enormous 60-foot paper-mache Ravana demon that was filled with fireworks.

I'll have some Top Ravana.

Secondly, Guru and myself - were the only ones in the entire festival dressed in traditional Indian clothing. Hmm, can you say awkward? Tomorrow's headline in 'The Hindu': Giant American Stomping Around Celebration Seen As Offensive!

But that's actually the opposite of how it went. True, we were the only ones dressed traditionally at the festival - most there don't have the money from months of work to afford the clothes we were wearing - but contrastingly, Guru and I were instantly treated like royalty.

Within minutes of our arrival, people gathered around us for pictures, including the spiritual and political leaders of the area - they grabbed me - and thusly, we became official guests of the celebration. Pictures abound. Additionally, everyone thought Guru was an American by association - I told him, "It's working, so go with it - you have dual citizenship." Happily, and in the spirit of Scott, he did. Obviously, I've taught him well.

~~~~~My new friends~~~~~~~~~With local film writer~~~

Then finally, the most prestigious and admired leader of the entire region - JPR Reddy - adorned me with flowers, blessed me, and hugged me upon his departure.

The leader of their free world. And me.

I couldn't have asked for a more perfect trip. For a night, we were stars. Everyone around wanted a picture with me - once I was associated with the festival leaders, I took on a celebrity quality. Ironically, a far reach from my life in Los Angeles.

But as I would find out, celebrity has its price. Not just two mornings after the night-long celebration, a guest visited my hotel room. Correction: A man walked in, on his own, to my hotel room. As I got out of the shower. In a towel no less.

It was the 'film writer.' (see picture from above) Caught unawares, I told him to come in for a moment. Now fully clothed, I sat across the room and ate my breakfast. He sat on my bed and talked on the phone, speaking Hindi. This guy had not been in my room for more than a minute - uninvited, no doubt - and now he's on the phone?! Strange and absurd. Well, this guy couldn't weigh more than a buck-thirty - so I returned to my breakfast, while, incredulously, he yapped away on the telephone. Of course I took a picture.

I don't think he was on the phone with eTrade.

And of course it got better. I finished my breakfast and he finally finished up on the phone. I asked him why he came by - so in turn, he wrote a poem for me. Yeah, I know what you're thinking - don't worry, I am too. But now I'm simply amused.


~~~~~~India's poet laureate?~~~~~

Now I'm ready to go - his poem is awful, he's probably gay, and I need to get to work. Annoying, annoying, and more annoying. My car is supposed to arrive for me - but of course it's late. This is no surprise - they're in the middle of production and most of the cars are all taken up in the early morning.

And then it gets better: When the hotel staff comes to remove my dishes, he orders breakfast. I ask myself, why not? I laughed out loud, but I let him order - breakfast is free after all, and this is amazing, this whole charade.

~~~~~~~Finger-lickin' good!~~~~~~~~

And he scarfed down the food. This told me a few things - he's most likely not a writer(although my boss saw his picture and said, "Oh, the writer!"), and this guy is close to homeless. I told my boss later that he'd been bamboozled - this was no writer. I'm pretty sure his poem was evidence of that.

Now that he'd finished his 'breakfast,' I wanted him to leave. Not easy. But a little about me - when I get backed into a wall, I go on the offense. So in kind, I did...

I said, "You know what, you're such a good poet, would you mind reading some great poetry from a great American poet, whilst I tape you?" He agreed. I got out my HD camera.

The poet: Bukowski. The poem: "I'm not all-knowing, but..." A poem about... Bukowski's distaste for awful poets. An excerpt from what he read below:

Bukowski's poem about his hatred for bad poets.

And upon finishing his reading in dramatic fashion(remember, it's on HD), the phone rang. My car was here. Happily, I left word with the front desk to not let him up to my room ever again, and I went off to embrace my morning coffee.

So adieu to India, so inviting, sometimes more than one would like. But I guess in a new culture, one's boundaries must be tested in order for growth. And in India, some tests are thrust upon you whether you like it or not. At least I have the last one on tape.

Friday, October 19, 2007

Learn from the East, Draw on the West.


Learn from the East

So it has taken me awhile to get back here. 3 days from Hawaii to arrive back in Hyderabad. Hence, this week back in India was indeed tiresome. But I am back to the page.

Travel to - and stay in Hawaii - provided me with some deep and useful perspective:



~~~~~~Japan~~~~~~~~~United States~~~~~~~~~India~~~~~~


Draw on the West

Worldwide travel really makes a man's basic needs very clear. Not only have I been educated on the art of toiletry, but the female form as well.

Here in India, let's just say opportunities to meet women aren't exactly plentiful. Everything is arranged and conservatively drawn out. So thusly, I am forced to draw on the experiences I gained from my Hawaii trip to lift myself up - until I return back to Los Angeles. (On Halloween.)

Here's a trick:


~~~~~~~~~~~the picture I took~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~the picture I saw~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Saturday, September 29, 2007

India halfway. Impressions. (off to Hawaii!)

Upon the halfway point of my trip, I will indulge you with some anecdotes/rememberances from the trip.



Ice. Ice is a very valuable commodity. Most places don't have any ice, and if they do, they harbor the cubes as if they raised the cubes themsleves from baby water.

Last Monday, I was at a restaurant for late lunch - it was hot and humid day - and there was nothing more I wanted than an ice cold Coca-Cola. But it arrived with no ice.

"Could I get some ice, please?" He departed and returned with a large, shiny silver bowl filled with ice. He dipped in his brass tongs and dropped one cube into my halfway-filled glass of Coke.

"Still more ice." He nodded and dropped one more into my glass.

"Still more." Same pleasant response, and I was awarded with a third cube.

"More. More. More." Four, five, six.

"Yeah, still more. Thanks. But more please. More. More. Could I have just one more? Okay, that's good. Thanks."

Boy, was that Coke good! Icy goodness!



"Please don't smash your baby's penis up against the window, thanks." Occasiaonally the homeless people here get very pushy. One woman went a bit too far for my taste. I'll afford you the luxury of not adding a photo illustration.



And after all this time, my favortie place to eat:





McDonald's. This will inevitably change back to The Hyderabad House, but I am still recovering from my gastroruinmyinsidesitis, and damn, that McChicken and fries never tased so good.



Now I'm off to Delhi and then 120km south to see the Taj Mahal. Hmm, I wonder if it's as cool looking as Trump's. After that... Tokyo, for 12 hours. Then Hawaii. A good friend of mine, James Dingus, is getting married - I arranged this perfect sabbatical before I left. 9 days in Hawaii.

Then I will return to India for the 2nd half. Wish me luck.

Aloha!

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Correction: I won.

This is tough to believe even for myself.

Literally minutes after I posted the previous blog of sickness, mostly to garner sympathy, I heard a large booming sound of drums coming from the street in front of my hotel.

I knew there were celebrations going on today. Specifically, the Ganesh Festival - I read about it - it's the celebration of the birth of Lord Ganesh.

Ganesh is the eldest son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. He is one of the most popular and most worshiped Indian gods. His image is one of the most widely drawn, painted and sculptured. He is the elephant-headed god. That's the gist - the entire country despite religion celebrates this day - 1 billion strong.

So, despite my pains and aches, I ventured down to the street to check it out. I started taking pictures of the large elephant God statue and the kids on the truck bed carrying it. Pretty cool.












This statue to the left is on it's way to the enormous celebration at Hussain Sager Lake in central Hyderabad. It will be lowered by crane into the lake, along with thousands of similar nature.

Then I ventured up to the drumming and dancing area that led the Ganesh truck. People lined the streets. The drummers called me to take their pictures. Smiles abound.


But then, one of the elder dancers pulled me in the middle of the drummers. I really had no idea what was going on. I went with it. Love was there.


They started to drum for me. Dancing and girating and stomping around me, I had no recourse but to give in and dance with them. Feverish pitch, pounding, stomping, laughing, smiling - I danced with them with all my energy - dispite my state.

And then another elder hugged me and wrapped a sacred headband around my head. The younger men then threw powdered paint all over me of red, burnt orange, and lime green. Two men came up and annointed me with red, in between my eyebrows. When in India...

I continuted to dance - amidst all of them, across from men challenging me with energy(they won that battle - but my effort was very respectable), and spinning through all of them. I smiled and laughed with them - absurd!





Then my body began to talk to me. I took a break. They gave me water - cold bottled water. I told them I could not go on, I was feeling sick. Their answer? Pull Scott back in. More dancing. Jumping. I said to myself, "How can I not?" Off I went.





After another break, they let me go. Exhilarating isn't a word that reaches what I just went through. Well, I do know exhausting is one word that does. And alive. Happy.

I left them and walked back down the street to my hotel with a bottle of water and a smile on my face, sweaty and covered in paints and confetti. Everyone that saw me as I walked back smiled.





So I will be fine. The stomach pain is still there. But it was completely forgotten for a good 30 minutes. I'm still trying to comprehend it all. Back to bed. After I shower off the paint.

Monday, September 24, 2007

India won. And I lost.

For this post I am going to exercise brevity.

Looking forward to a night of reverly upon a possible Indian cricket World Cup victory, I began to feel ill on Monday afternoon and decided to retire to my room to watch the final match from my bed. Excitingly, India won in amazing fashion.

The team lifted the entire country - but I have since spiraled the opposite direction.

Gastroenteritis. Know that I am in good hands. I arrived here with Citro antibiotics for this very special occasion. In addition, Bhaskar and myself walked through a very busy hospital and I was immediately seen - they evidently have some pull in this city. A good feeling that unfortunately didn't extend to my entire body.

I am now bedside with stomach pains and stomach "problems." And to answer many a comment - YES - I do have toilet paper in large supply.

-Scott

Saturday, September 22, 2007

INDIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay, first pictures. Thank you, Brandi - bought a great still camera yersterday based on your perameters. Canon.

Last night, India defeated Australia in semifinals of the Cricket World 20/20. I was in an exclusive club - Liquids - atop Hyderabad to experience the melee that ensued. Melee.

The hero is Yuvraj Singh. He single-handedly destroyed the Wallabies by smashing the ball repeatedly into the stands after a slow Indie-start.

Here are a few shots - note that on Monday, India will be playing Pakistan in the final(they defeated New Zealand in the other semifinal.) I say "note" because last night was insane - no words will be able to capture Monday's match.

I'm holding a long island iced tea - my 4th by my count. Four too many by the judge of my groggy semi-wakeful head this morning. But they taste great with insanity.









Friday, September 21, 2007

Indian (Morse) code. .. . ...

I've been studiying this honk phenomenon. I didn't go into to detail previously about it because it was only something I noticed upon arrival in Hyderabad at 1:30 Monday morning - I was travel woozy and I thought maybe they were honking to let everyone know I was here - so they could brace themselves for the culture shock of Scott. Not the case.

The honk is a language of vehicles in this city. I cannot speak for the whole state or country for I have yet to travel out of my domestic radius. But I'm guessing it's similar - I reside in the well-to-do region of Hyderabad - and even here, there are no traffic lanes, a disregard for the dividers(unless they are cement), and you'd be hard pressed to find a traffic light.

But the city still flows. And ebbs. Oh, yes, the ebbing is commonly accompanied my honks from each vehicle trying to manage their way towards conflicting destinations. As I'm being driven to work, I've been watching my driver and his honks and the motorcycles' honks and pedestrians - no, they don't honk - but there are plenty of honks for them.


>>Honk Legend<<

*honk* - short honk

*HONK* - long honk

**HONK!!** - Los Angeles honk


1. *honk* - traffic is flowing, this can be arbitrary. This is to maintain stasis, keep the flow. There is usually a small motorcycle to the side. Cars or motorcycles on each side.

2. *honk* *honk* - traffic is flowing, but there is something up ahead on the side - possibly a pedestrian - tells them to stay as they are, in position - there's a vehicle on the way that might kill them if they wander out.

3. *honk* *HONK* - traffic is moving, but something or someone is in the way. The first honk is to communicate your presence, the second - get the fuck out of the way. (not really as hostile as this - everyone usually moves, without gripe.)

4. *honk* *honk* *honk* *honk...* - a motorcycle does this when moving through slow traffic. Each honk is for each car passed. How considerate.

5. *HONK* *HONK* - going around a blind corner, important to let another car or motorcycle or person know you're coming - they may be on your side of the road. This is common, and it works. We would have killed 17 people so far if it weren't for the old reliable, double-long honk.

6. *honk* *HONK* **HONK!!** - the progression communicates as well as the end honk itself. Since there are really no lanes, we commonly need to go left across two cars to turn left, including navigating around a huge bus, to get to our designated street. So, students: *honk* - we're here - *HONK* - we're coming, so move away or... don't move at all(stay put) - and lastly, **HONK!!** - Don't move your big-ass bus another fucking inch because you're going to crunch our pristine luxury sedan and sandwich the motorcycle in between us and snap his femur, so just chill the fuck out out for a second while we drive horizontally across in front of you and the motorctycle, and hey you, pedestrian - don't even try and walk across us right now, we have to get Scott his morning coffee.

At least these people have their principles. That's why I love it here.